How to convert Graham Farish Class V2 to DCC

This guide covers the following models:

• Class V2 60800 'Green Arrow' in Green with late crest (372-600)
• Class V2 60807 in lined black (372-601)
• Class V2 4844 'Coldstreamer' in lined apple green (372-602)

This model uses a more modern, coreless motor and is therefore somewhat easier to convert to DCC than many old Graham Farish steam examples. Space is tight inside the loco body, but a small decoder can be hidden on the footplate, or in the tender. Some modification to the chassis is required.

Step 1 - Remove Body

First, remove the tender and the rear dolly wheels. Turn the loco upside down and pop out the two wires holding the dolly wheel onto the split pin. This will allow you to detach the dolly wheel and tender from the loco in one go. Still upside down, remove the first screw (as you look at it from the front of the loco) and the one that was previously hidden by the rear dolly wheels.

The footplate detail piece pulls backwards out of the back of the loco to unlock the chassis. This allows the chassis itself to be pushed back slightly also, which releases it from the body.

Step 2 - Prepare Motor

Turn the loco back the right way up, and remove the screw that is holding the weight in place. Put the weight to one side. Using a small flat-headed screwdriver, gently pop the motor out.

With the motor out, solder a grey and orange wire to the tabs.

Step 3 - Connect black track pickup wire

Power from the track is transferred to the motor via a spring onto the lower motor contact tab, and a copper piece at the top. Undo the screw and remove the copper piece.

Undo the two screws holding the plastic motor frame to the chassis.

File down the metal knub where the spring previous was. The aim is to make sure that the motor contact cannot touch the metal chassis.

Strip the insulation off a black wire to about 5mm, and then trap it underneath the plastic motor frame. Replace the two screws. Check that this wire has good contact with the chassis by testing for continutity between the wire and the wheels.

Step 4 - Connect red track pickup wire

Cut the copper tab down to remove the vertical section. Solder a red wire to it.

Step 5 - Replace motor

Clip the motor back in. Replace the weight.

At this point, you should have four wires: red, orange, black and grey. Using a multimeter, verify that the track (red and black) wires have continuity to one side of pickup wheels (only).

Check that the grey and orange (motor) wires do not have continuity to either the red/black wires, or each other. Once satisfied that there are no shorts, and everything is good, you can optionally attach a 9V battery to the grey and orange motor wires, and the motor should run.

Step 6 - Refit body

Place the chassis back inside the body and push it forwards to clip in place. Route the wires either side of the footplate and out of the back. Push the footplate detail piece back in, which will further secure the chassis onto the body. Refit the two screws that came from the underside of the chassis.

Step 7 - Connect decoder

Solder the four wires to the decoder as below. Add some black tape or shrink sleeve to the decoder, then blacktack it in place on the footplate.

Step 8 - Test

On your programming track, try reading the decoder ID. If all is well, the motor will judder a couple of times, and it should come back with the default ID. Reconnect the tender, and you are done!